2009 Bourgogne Blanc

The 2009 Bourgogne comes across as soft, delicate and pleasing. This is one of the more understated 2009 Bourgognes I tasted. It possesses lovely acidity and refined balance, with a hushed expression of fruit that is quite attractive at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Domaine Leflaive is one of the pioneers in biodynamic viticulture in Burgundy. The first experiments began in 1990 and by 1997 all of the vineyards had been converted to biodynamic farming. Winemaker Eric Remy describes the 2009 growing season in considerable detail. The winter was long but mild. The last frost occurred on March 23. Temperatures were normal until the last week of the month, when the weather turned warmer. Flowering began on May 22. The rest of the spring and summer were warm, while a big storm in mid-July dropped 8cm of rain. The rest of the summer was quite warm. The harvest began on September 5, about ten days earlier than normal. Average yields were around 45 hectoliters per hectare. The wines were aged for 12 months in oak followed by 6-8 months in steel. New oak ranged from 10% for the Bourgogne, 15% for the villages, 20% for the premier crus and 25% for the grand crus. The 2009s were bottled between April and June 2011. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Quite a solid nose without much trademark Leflaive nervosité. Lots of rather simple fruit and acidity. Not the star that this wine sometimes is – in fact it tastes a little like a nervy Macon at this stage! No shortage of acidity but because of the ripeness it seems less tart than the 2008s (which actually have less acid, Eric Leflaive says). (JR)