1990 Vieux Chateau Certan
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Tasting notes
‘Alexandre: “In 1990, two strong images come to mind: a superb, very hot summer followed by a long period without rain at the end of the season. I had to rigorously adapt the vineyard. Third consecutive hot year after 88 and 89, 1990 was a major benchmark.” Warm winter, early bud burst. Rain in April then period of hot and cold weather until July. Crop thinning. Success for Merlot and the Right Bank.’ 60 % Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Magnum with lots of bottle deposit. More youthful deep ruby than the 1989. Gamey, opulent nose. Then a little more restrained and inky on the palate but with VCC’s elegance. Richly textured and layered. Really a very fine wine on any basis. Juicy already but with lots of potential. Long and a bit of a peacock’s tail on the end. Much more vibrant and convincing than the 1989! (JR)
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More reviews and scores
The 1990 Vieux Château Certan is a vintage that underwent rigorous crop-thinning, and Alexandre Thienpont opines that its success is founded on the Merlot, a wine that he sees as a blend of 1988 and 1989. Maybe a little Brettanomyces? But it is very minor and does not denude it of pleasure, albeit in a Rhône-like style; it gains vigor in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannins, mulberry and leather, bay leaf and a touch of desiccated orange peel. Some heat comes through on the finish, though overall, I prefer this to the 1989 by direct comparison, even if the bottle four years ago showed better. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove.
The 1990 Vieux Château Certan has a mature colour. It has a lovely nose with freshly picked mint and menthol infusing the red fruit, precocious and yet perfectly controlled. The palate is medium-bodied and more sensual than the 1989 on this occasion. Lovely roundness here, this 1990 has a gorgeous texture with a weighty hickory and truffle-tinged finish that lingers. It becomes more and more gamey with aeration, and I suspect well-kept bottles will offer another 12-15 years of pleasure. Tasted at the Vieux Château Certan dinner at La Trompette.
Rather majestic and intellectual. Broad, brûlée nose and on the palate more obvious acidity than the two other Pomerols in this flight of 1990s – but also more complex. Very grown up and sophisticated. Classy rather than simply sweet with something medicinal about it. Transparent, juicy and not the most concentrated – as though it had already received the memo about 21st-century lightening up. Opened out admirably in the glass. (JR)
About the producer
The original Château at Vieux Château Certan dates back to around 1770 but the modern history of the estate begins in 1924 - the year that Belgian wine merchant Georges Thienpont purchased the property.