2004 Taylor's Quinta de Vargellas
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Tasting notes
It's funny in a way that wines like this are mainly stocked by supermarkets when they are really of interest to wine geeks too and so I'd have thought they would find a market in independent wine shops. This cork was completely dried out, like that of its Fonseca single-quinta stablemate and no amount of piercing the cork would yield more than a tiny few drops. Very frustrating. But the nose, even of this small portion, was very deep and multilayered. Sweet with layers of ginger biscuit and a dry, still quite tannic, finish. Not ready, even if you could get into the bottle, but very promising. A little note of tar, liquorice, and great depth. Wait for this to reveal itself. (JR)
Critic scores
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Jancis Robinson MW
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Chosen by The Yeatman's wine director Beatriz Machado. Pure, fresh, energetic with a lovely perfume of violets and just the right balance of fruit. Still in great shape. These single quinta ports are such a bargain... (JR)
The 2004 Quinta de Vargellas has a lovely raisin and fig scented bouquet, mellow and seductive, just a touch of smoke coming through with time. The palate is spicy on the entry with Christmas Cake and clove infusing the red fruit. This feels very harmonious with the tongue tingling with white pepper and fennel towards the satisfying finish. This often overlooked release from Taylor Fladgate deserves your attention. Tasted at the "Big Fortified Tasting" in London.
Richer, more expressive than their Terra Feita, with lovely interplay between full body, refreshing acidity and a spirity character that leaves just enough peppery burn on the palate. Rich and impressive and still going strong. (RH)