1998 Chateauneuf du Pape

Now here's a beautiful, texture book Chateauneuf that's right in the middle of its drinking window. Aromatically, the 1998 Château Fortia Châteauneuf-du-Pape is perfumed and shows nice intensity with tons of garrigue and spice laced raspberry notes that are supported by new saddle leather and mineral nuances. The palate has nice acidity, medium body and plenty of length to go along with some fine grained tannins that are still lurking underneath the fruit. Surprisingly fresh, this is drinking beautifully.

The two bottles (one a magnum) tasted were disappointing. Orange/rust-colored to the edge, its loosely knit, flaccid mouthfeel, fading, sugary flavors, and absence of any stuffing or intensity make for a wine that seems to be on the edge of total collapse. I had expected it to show better. In retrospect, it should have all been consumed in its first 5-6 years of life. This great estate can certainly do a far better job than this. Wine Advocate.June, 2010