2004 Chryseia

Unusually dry winter but 77 mm of rain in mid August – most unusual. This turned out to be the miracle that saved the vintage. Ripe bonfire nose. Quite strongly Douro and a bit pruney. Not that much concentration. Marked acidity on the finish. A bit awkward. Prats thinks it is closing up. ‘It comes and goes in waves', he said. (JR)

Prats and Symington. 70% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca. 13 months in 400-litre new French oak. Very interesting to compare the 2004 with the 2009. Fruit is still very sweet and dominant on the nose and it has that same slightly minty note of the 2009 and some slight strange (wood-derived) flavour rather like tamarind. Difficult to describe on the palate, there's a strong fruit sweetness but also the merest hint of something more meaty. Surprisingly little develoment after five years in bottle though the tannins are now fully resolved. Just fresh enough. I think there's just too much wood flavour on all three vintages tasted. (JH)

The 2004 Chryseia seems brighter and more pointed than its 2003 counterpart, not quite as sweet, a little earthier. There are some similarities, such as refined tannins, lovely and persistent flavors and a suave, modern feel. The 2003 is far more attractive at the moment, and seems riper and sweeter, but the 2004 will likely overtake it. To me, it adds some of the complexity missing from the 2003, even if it is slightly less seductive. Ultimately, it may come down to your style preferences. I hope to retaste them side-by-side over the years. Both wines drank very well the next day and opened up beautifully, proving that they are not just about tasty fruit. This held easily for both tasting purposes and longer, despite having been open for a day, a good sign. This is primarily Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, with Tinta Roriz and Tinta Cao blended in, raised in new French oak. Proportions of each varietal used are expected to vary from year-to-year. There were 3,000 cases produced. Fruit is sourced from various Quintas of note, including Perdiz and Bomfim. Drink 2008-2016. This is one of the famous and increasingly successful partnerships in Portugal with foreign wine interests. Here, the Symingtons, owners of Dow’s and Graham’s ports, among others, pair up with Bruno Prats of Cos d’Estournel fame. Chryseia is a relatively new project, the first experimental lots having been made only in 1999. “Chryseia” is the Greek translation of “Douro,” literally meaning “of gold.” In many respects, you can call this lineup from Prats & Symington one of the more modern faces of the Douro. No one will call these wines “rustic.” Importer: Premium Port Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel: (415) 554-9920.