2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois

Vivid ruby. Compelling aromas of raspberry preserves, potpourri and blood orange, with a spicy overtone. Juicy and precise, offering palate-staining, deeply concentrated red fruit flavors that expand and gain spiciness with air. Finishes seamless and sweet, with intense lingering florality. Offers an impressive combination of depth and vivacity.

There are 535 cases of the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois (100% Grenache from 110-year-old vines planted on the famed small rocks called Galets Roules). It is a classic Chateauneuf with lots of roasted herb, licorice, cedar, resiny pine forest, kirsch liqueur and black raspberry characteristics. It possesses a deep plum/garnet color as well as full body, 15+% natural alcohol and 15 years of drinkability. While the firm of Chapoutier is justifiably renowned for their northern Rhone wines and, increasingly, their projects in Australia, Portugal and the Languedoc-Roussillon (more on those wines later), they have some important holdings in Chateauneuf du Pape. Furthermore, they do a good job with their negociant offerings from growers who farm their vineyards biodynamically, a prerequisite for any grapes or wine purchased by Chapoutier. Two luxury cuvees are from two old vineyards, Croix de Bois which is near Bedarrides on the eastern side of the appellation, and Barbe Rac, in the western sector. The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois and 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac are both fabulous wines showing far better out of bottle than they did last year. Both are aged completely in cement tanks in the new Chapoutier facility just outside of Tain l’Hermitage. Chapoutier loves the minerality and acid levels that were achieved in his biodynamically farmed vineyards in 2010. He said that after seven or eight years of biodynamic viticulture, he notices the pHs going down and the total acids in the vineyards going up, a positive. The least expensive offerings in this portfolio are the Vin de Pays d’Oc cuvees. The two 2010 luxury Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees were more restrained than the opulent, voluptuously textured 2009s. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Bright ruby-red. A sexy, highly perfumed bouquet displays fresh red berries, potpourri and white pepper, with hints of allspice and anise adding complexity. Spicy and alluringly sweet in the mouth, offering lively strawberry and raspberry flavors and intense herb and floral characteristics. Fine-grained tannins add grip and shape to a long, sappy, subtly smoky finish. This will be delicious young.