2002 Banyuls Helyos
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Under the direction of Alain Raynaud, the Cave de l’Abbe Rous coop in Banyul turns out some excellent wines, notably their flagship 2002 Banyuls Helyos. Peat, iodine, algae, toasted almonds, dried cherries and cherry liqueur rise in improbable juxtaposition from the glass. The next surprise is how bright and positively refreshing this wine shows on the palate despite high residual sugar and a creamy texture. Ample tannins are still harbored beneath the fruit, but they are refined and of a sort to permit enjoyment now yet suggest one put some aside in the cellar. A long finish of black fruit preserves, bitter-sweet dark chocolate, and myriad smoky, pungent, saline minerals completes the complex and satisfying picture here on display. Imported by WineWise, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 848-6879
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Robert Parker
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
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This wine is made by the brilliant Libourne/St.-Emilion doctor and château owner, Dr. Alain Raynaud. This is his first venture in southern France, and the results are very impressive. This offering is personally made by Dr. Raynaud from vineyards owned by Cave de l'Abbé Rous. As of May, 2004, there is no American importer, probably because Banyuls is not a household name for most American wine consumers, which is a shame. A brilliant example of Banyuls, this 18,000 bottle cuvée was produced from 25-60-year old Grenache vines. It possesses lofty alcohol and unobtrusive residual sweetness, but none of the Amarone-like, late harvest character found in many Banyuls. These wines are natural accompaniments to chocolate desserts. This dense ruby/purple-colored 2002 boasts an extraordinary perfume of creosote/charcoal, blackberries, blueberries, fennel, and licorice. Extremely full-bodied with rich, concentrated fruit, remarkable freshness, elegance, and finesse, and a finish that lasts for more than 60 seconds, this vibrant offering reveals neither heaviness nor oxidation.