1979 Leoville Las Cases

This tasting consisted of each of the varietal components of Las Cases, followed by the final blend for Leoville-Las Cases. It is hard to believe, but the cuvee of Cabernet Sauvignon is so acidic, tough, hard, sinewy, and almost out of balance that it merits only an average rating, yet the final wine, which consists of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, is much better. It is a poignant example of how important blending can be, and how small percentages of other varietals can soften and alter a wine's personality. Although the Cabernet Sauvignon possesses fine color, it is extremely hard, tough, and unappealing. The 1979 Merlot is an elegant, fully mature, moderately ripe wine with an herb, tea, and coffee-scented nose, pleasant currant flavors, and a velvety finish. The Cabernet Franc exhibits aromatic complexity, with plenty of smoke, licorice, and curranty fruit. It is crisp and tart, but the initial attack tails off in the mouth. The Petit Verdot offers more fruit, spice, and body than the Cabernet Franc, as well as an excess of tannin. The 1979 Leoville-Las Cases is one of the leaner examples of this wine, with some hard tannin remaining in the finish. Nevertheless, it reveals good fruit, a stylish, curranty, mineral, and vanillin-scented nose, medium body, some compactness, and a crisp, short finish. It is unlikely to improve, so drink it over the next 5-8 years.