1991 Chambertin

The 1991 Chambertin Grand Cru is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years (it was not part of last year's epic vertical). I have never been as taken with this vintage as the 1993. With brambly red fruit, leather and sous-bois on the nose, it is beautifully defined, if not blessed with earth-shattering complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with, again, dark berry fruit laced with black tea and allspice. It's saline toward the finish. The 1991 is an utterly charming Chambertin, and I am probably being mean because I adore the 1993 so much. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.

The 1991 Chambertin Grand Cru is drinking beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, forest floor, sweet spices, peonies, orange rind and smoked meats. Full-bodied, velvety and seamless, with fine depth at the core, melting tannins and lively acids, it concludes with a long, sapid finish. Beautifully integrated and fully mature, it's showing very well today.