2011 Chambertin

The 2011 Chambertin is pure sensuality on the glass. The flavors are remarkably pure for such a dense, layered wine. Violets, lavender, new leather and cloves wrap around a core of dense, deeply expressive fruit as the aromatics and flavors gradually unfurl on the palate. Today the Chambertin is showing just the barest hint of its ultimate potential. There is a lot to look forward to for those who can wait. The 100% whole clusters and 100% new oak are totally buried by the sheer resonance of the fruit.

(just one 195-liter barrel from 88-year-old vines, made with whole clusters): Bright, deep medium ruby. Great wild, soil-driven perfume of cassis, blackberry, espresso, smoked meat, animal fur and bitter chocolate. Thick, lush and sweet; utterly mouthfilling without showing any undue weight. The ripe tannins saturate the front teeth on the whiplash of a finish. Dugat must work these vines with a horse as they are planted at an extremely dense 14,000 per hectare.

98-year-old vines! 100% whole bunch. 100% new oak. 537 sq m. Aged in a 195-litre cask (even smaller in 2012) made especially for him each year. Very special. All worked by hand because of such high vine density. Magnificent. Dense and this must be the wine that sustains him through his rather severe vinification regime. Very exciting and dense even if not at all flattering. So solid! (JR)