2003 Amarone della Valpolicella

Who could forget the summer heat in 2003? By most accounts, this vintage is considered the tipping point for climate change awareness. Despite that context, the Bertani 2003 Amarone della Valpolicella is not immediately identifiable as being from such a scorching vintage. One of the secrets of appassimento is that vintage over-ripeness or stewed aromas are ironed out by the grape-drying process because it adds a whole new level of intensity. That is my impression. This wine does indeed show extra weight and general softness. The bouquet is well preserved with black fruit, tarry smoke and pitted prune. There is a fresh citrusy note of candied orange peel. It is fat and immediate in drinking style. It is not as long or polished as the others, and it is slightly past its peak.