2009 Cornas La Sabarotte

One of the finest Cornas wines I have tasted is Courbis’s 2009 Cornas La Sabarotte. With a style similar to Les Eygats, it exhibits notes of blueberry and blackberry liqueur intermixed with incense, creosote, charcoal, roasted meats and spring flowers. It possesses fabulous fruit as well as a skyscraper-like texture. There is no evidence of new oak because of the lavish concentration. This enormously impressive, full-bodied, massive wine will be even better in 5-10 years and should last for 25+ years. Two brilliant vintages from Domaine Courbis include the more forward 2009s and the equally fine 2010s, which will require considerable patience. The 2010s have slightly higher acids, which tends to make the tannins more noticeable, but they are also extremely concentrated, with massive palate impressions. It is often said that Cornas is made for those with 19th century palates, but Courbis has tamed the uncivilized ruggedness and wilder aspects of Cornas, resulting in huge wines, but undeniably Cornas. Importer: Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; tel. (908) 771-9082

Deep blackish purple. A throaty deeply plummy nose. Rich and liquorice-laced blackberry and blueberry fruit. with a dusting of cocoa. Absolutely packs of tannin and yet there is something soaring about this wine. Long and melded. (TC)

The inky/ruby/purple-tinged 2009 Cornas La Sabarotte reveals slightly more sweet, toasty oak along with hints of barbecue spice, licorice, blueberries and blackberries, a full-bodied, dense, concentrated style and the highest tannin levels of any of these three 2009 Cornas cuvees. It will benefit from 3-5 years of bottle age and should drink well for two decades or more. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate February 2011