2011 Cote Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron

Inky ruby. A wild, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes candied red fruits, potpourri and peppery spices. Juicy, penetrating, subtly sweet raspberry and cherry-cola flavors show impressive vivacity and pick up a smoky nuance with air. Silky tannins give shape to the finish, with the spice and raspberry notes echoing. (I was also able to retaste the 2010 version of this bottling, which is really showing its structure right now. There's no way I'd broach a bottle anytime soon as there's simply not a lot going on today except deep, brooding, primary dark fruit.)

The 2011 Cote Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron is a superb effort that excels in the vintage. Juicy and lively, with a medium to full-bodied, elegant and classic profile on the palate, it exhibits plenty of classic olive tapenade, bacon, smoked meat and ground pepper, with a core of raspberry and mulberry-styled fruit. A blend of 100% Syrah that spent 16 months in 30% new French oak, this beauty will drink nicely for 15 years or more. Run by Jacques Grange and Claire Darnaud, Delas, which is owned by the Louis Roederer-Deutz Champagne firm, is producing no nonsense, extremely high quality efforts that are near the top of each of their respective appellations. I was consistently impressed by the wines, and they stood out in all of the larger tastings that I was able to do. In addition, I was able to taste the wines again at the domain, and again once back in the states. These are serious efforts worthy of attention. As to the Hermitages, they produce two, a standard Domaine des Tourettes, and in top vintages, the Les Bessards. In addition to the top-flight Cote Rotie and Hermitage releases, this estate produces a bevy of high quality efforts from Cornas and Saint Joseph. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Lurid ruby. Sexy aromas of raspberry, woodsmoke and cracked pepper, with a strong floral overtone. Silky, pure and focused, with silky texture and complex red berry, spicecake and floral pastille flavors. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins, lingering sweetness and very good energy.