2004 Robustus

The 2004 ROBUSTUS, due to be released—probably—at the end of 2008, looks like it will be a big winner. At Niepoort’s winery in the Summer of 2008, I had my second taste of this wine. It is a cuvee meant to indicate a bigger wine than his normal output and one of his oldest brands. Yet, despite all the talk of size, it can acquire elegance with age, as the 1990 I had recently proves. Since it may well be released by the time this article appears, it is time to provide a preview tasting note. It has fine depth and wonderful intensity of flavor lingering on the fine finish. Despite the upfront fruit and flavor, it promises to have some complexity and age very well, making it a worthy competitor to Niepoort’s superb Batuta in this vintage. Drink now-2023. One of the Douro’s icons, as well as top estates, Niepoort presents a wide range of wines, paying serious attention to whites as well as reds, and occasionally dabbling with international grapes like Riesling and Pinot Noir. His upper level wines like Batuta and Redoma Reserva Branco are among the Douro’s most sought after trophies in most vintages. His 2006 white vintage was quite good, exceeding expectations. The reds seemed to me to suffer a lot from vintage conditions, although certain decisions, like eliminating Batuta and using the juice for Redoma, often resulted in wines not too far off the 2005 red marks. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Inc., Novato, CA.; tel: (415) 883-0400; except in New York/New Jersey: Eric Solomon, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565