2008 Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese

The Prums’ 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese is less obviously rich but even more remarkably delicate than the corresponding Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. Here too, we have creaminess of texture allied to refreshing brightness. Iris, buddleia, apple, and pineapple are tinged with enticing salinity, and one is drawn back infectiously for the next sip, as this wine’s intrigue and understated charm work their magic. Over the next three decades, I predict that this will remain the most intimate and delicate of the vintage’s Prum Spatlesen. The Prums compare 2008 with 2004 and as such consider it a classic Spatlese year, with thankfully with more wine in the Kabinett range that this estate has seen in many years. And if you remain unconvinced after tasting the present collection that residually sweet Kabinett Riesling is capable not only of reflecting the full potential of great Mosel vineyard sites but also capable of profundity and greatness per se, then you never will be. The above having been noted, the range of Auslesen here this year, while small, is extraordinary. The 2008 collection also includes January, 2009 Eiswein from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Graacher Himmelreich which I did not taste. As in past reports, it should be noted that while there are multiple bottlings of Prum Kabinetts or Spatlesen from a given vineyard in any given vintage, the estate is at pains to insist that the differences are minimal, and I am not privy to the A.P. #s of most non-auction bottlings that I taste there, nor would I pretend to the ability to unerringly match a wine sampled later from a labeled bottle with the specific lot I had tasted previously at the estate. Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. 918 622 0424 and Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463