2011 Condrieu Les Chaillées de l'Enfer

(made from younger vines in the Terrasses vineyard and aged in 225-liter barriques, 25% of them new): Green-tinged yellow. High-pitched citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complemented by violet and smoky minerals. Juicy, penetrating and pure, offering incisive pear skin and white peach flavors and a touch of anise. Becomes spicier and chewier with air and finish with excellent clarity, power and length.

Deeper and richer, the 2011 Condrieu Les Chaillees de L’Enfer is a complete extrovert on the nose, with exotic tropical, lychee, lemon peel and apricot-like nuances all soaring from the glass. Turning more floral with air, this medium-bodied, classy effort has a knockout texture and fantastic persistence on the finish. Enjoy it any time over the coming 4-5 years (it will hold for longer as well). While easily producing one of the top lineups of Condrieu, this estate is increasingly focusing on high quality reds as well. Importer: Martine’s Wine, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Light gold. An expressive bouquet evokes fresh citrus and orchard fruits, white flowers, ginger and smoky minerals. Vibrant, penetrating and pure, offering sappy lemon curd, pear and quince flavors and a sexy honeysuckle nuance. Lingers impressively on the finish, which echoes the floral and mineral notes. The 2010 bottling of this wine, which I re-tasted this winter, has closed up a bit in the last year and is dominated by its mineral component right now. I'd let it rest for a while longer, or at least decant it for an hour or so if I chose to drink it now.