2001 Barolo Vecchie Vite dei Capalot e Brunate Riserva

The 2001 Barolo Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate (magnum) has also held up beautifully. It shows the characteristic muscle of these sites. Dark fruit, leather, licorice, mint and eucalyptus flow through to the virile, imposing finish. The wine’s intensity and breadth are both deeply impressive. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2026. Contrary to the vast majority of growers, Roberto Voerzio has always maintained that 2000 was a better vintage for him than 2001. After having tasted both vintages extensively over the last few years, its pretty clear Voerzio is right. The 2001s haven’t held up as well as the 2000s I reviewed last year and are developing at a faster pace. Not surprisingly, both of the Baroli Voerzio bottles only in magnum have developed particularly gracefully. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

(for 1.5 liters; from 52- and 55-year-old vines) Good full red. Knockout nose combines red fruits, minerals, brown spices and Cuban tobacco. Not quite velvety but boasts superb minerally depth of flavor, with subtle notes of tobacco, brown spices and dried flowers. Very classy and classic Barolo, finishing with broad, spicy tannins that reach the front teeth. Should age positively for many years and may merit an even higher score.

Voerzio's old-vines 2001 Barolo Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate rounds out this set of stunning 2001 Barolos. It presents a deeply spiced, balsamic nose along with generous amounts of black cherry fruit with exceptional length and purity in its vibrant flavors. Sadly this wine shut down quickly in the glass and my guess is that I was only able to get a brief look at its qualities. Difficult to fully appreciate today, it will almost certainly merit a higher score in a few years. From Magnum.