2008 Chablis Moutonne
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Tasting notes
Grapefruit and white currant convey to the Long-Depaquit 2008 Chablis La Moutonne a vintage-typical visage as well as refreshing primary fruit. Saline, chalky, and quite firm on the palate, this is impressive in a rather stern way, and while persistent, isn’t willing to bend. There is handsomeness to its leanness as well as formidably high energy to its finish; and this grand cru certainly doesn’t suffer any lack of mouth-watering, ripe acidity. Hopefully, the pieces just need more time to entirely come together, and will merit following for a decade. That said, tasted alongside the 2007 rendition it displays significantly more complexity. The Long-Depaquit 2008 grand crus were bottled already in January, though had I not known this I might have been tempted to ascribe their firmness and at times somewhat muted flavors in April to post-bottling shock. Seemingly aware of their potential for austerity, Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot indicated that he quite actively worked the lees of his young 2008s. Various importers, including Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515 and Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718) 482-0200
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Knockout nose combines citrus and stone fruits, nutmeats, white truffle and a suggestion of grilled oak. Silky, broad, ripe and rich; this really envelops the palate in sheer sappy extract. Wonderfully sweet and elegant wine with superb volume and length. The suave finish features terrific lift. These very old vines always give a yield in the low 35 hectoliters-per-hectare range, noted Mangenot. I'd give this at least a few years in the cellar before pulling the cork.
Full, almost nutty on the nose. Crystal clear. Light and floral and very clean cut. But very youthful. (JR)
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Perfumed aromas of ginger and honey, with a slightly exotic quality. Fuller than the Vaudesir but just as dry, with an impression of brooding power to the flavors of peach, apricot, crushed stone, ginger and quinine. This boasts terrific palate presence and finishes broad and long, with firm acidity making itself felt on the gripping back end. This rich, tactile wine should be a knockout. Regisseur Mangenot pointed out that this wine and the Vaudesir get identical vinification and wood treatment (20% oak, with a maximum of 4% new). "The only difference between them is the terroir," he added. The Long-Depaquit grand crus are likely to be bottled in November and December of this year.
About the producer
Although the Bichot family settled in the region in 1350, Albert Bichot was founded in 1831 by Bernard Bichot. Today the producer is one of Burgundy’s most respected, making wines from both its own vineyards and with purchased fruit.