2009 Barolo Romirasco

The 2009 Barolo Romirasco is an incredibly rich and powerful wine and by far the most elaborate of the bunch. Those oak-driven notes of spice and toasted nut will require many more years of bottle aging until they fully integrate, but the wine certainly shows the girth and consistency to bring it forward over time. Lingering notes of mocha, espresso, cola, dark spice, plum and dried blackberries complete the finish. Don’t even think of opening this bottle anytime soon. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040. The landscape of Italian wine has forever changed with the passing of three of its most legendary figures. Giuseppe “Beppe” Quintarelli of Valpolicella died in early 2012, Franco Biondi Santi of Montalcino passed earlier this year and Aldo Conterno left us, at the age of 81, in May 2012. Conterno was a transformative figure for Barolo whose creativity and interest in modern winemaking techniques forever changed the region. In the 1950s, at 23 years old, he moved to California to learn about the wine trade there. He decided to complete his mandatory Italian military service in the United States and ended up serving in the U.S. Army during the Korean War. Illness meant he hadn’t been out much in public the last few years. As one producer told me, “You always felt his presence even if you didn’t always see him.” Importer: Massanois Imports, Scarsdale, NY; tel. (914) 722-9100

One of the bigger wines of the year, the 2009 Barolo Romirasco boasts stunning depth and richness. Layers of black fruit, tobacco, menthol, licorice and dried flowers literally explode from a Barolo that captivates all of the senses. The French oak is a bit noticeable at this stage, but there is more than enough richness in the glass to make me feel confident the wine will find its balance over time. In any event, opening a bottle of the 2009 before its tenth birthday is likely to be an exercise in futility. This is one of the most serious, powerful and structured wines of the year, not to mention a tremendous showing from Conterno.

The 2009 Barolo Romirasco is an incredibly rich and powerful wine and by far the most elaborate of the bunch. Those oak-driven notes of spice and toasted nut will require many more years of bottle aging until they fully integrate, but the wine certainly shows the girth and consistency to bring it forward over time. Lingering notes of mocha, espresso, cola, dark spice, plum and dried blackberries complete the finish. Don’t even think of opening this bottle anytime soon. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040. Jun 2013, www.robertparker.com