1997 Terra di Lavoro

Well, wouldn't you guess - there are only 50 cases of this beauty for the United States - one case per state. However, let's hope it serves as a beacon for other Campania producers. Made from 80% Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso, the 1997 Terra di Lavoro was bottled unfined and unfiltered after 12 months in 100% new oak. Not surprisingly, it displays all the earmarks of a Riccardo Cotarella-crafted wine. A monster, with extraordinary intensity and richness, its black/purple color, and knock-out aromas of tar, jammy black raspberries, licorice, truffles, and smoke are intoxicating. It is fabulously concentrated, with terrific glycerin, multiple layers of flavor, and a blockbuster, pure finish that lasts over 40 seconds. For the lucky few who are able to find a bottle, it will be absolutely amazing! Anticipated maturity: 2003-2020. Aug 1999, www.robertparker.com

Aglianico and piedirosso (the wine once contained some cabernet), with more than a passing resemblance to Montevetrano, though this is Latour to Montevetrano's Margaux. Essence of ink in color. Immense, full-throttle nose of black fruits, leather, and game. Almost more than a liquid on the palate, more to eat than to drink. And yet the texture offers compelling elegance, with the wine's countless strands and layers echoing and overlapping. An awesome wine of unfathomable depth, endless on the palate. Riccardo Cotarella has surpassed himself with this effort.