2003 Cote Rotie

Dark, almost inky ruby. Intensely floral nose shows a resiny dark fruit compote quality. Quite rich and thick, with concentrated cassis and plum flavors that gain focus and spicy character with aeration. The wine's adequate acidity is buried under ripe, powerful fruit today. Duclaux is pleased with the freshness that he and brother David achieved in 2003, and says this is because the fruit in Tupins-Semons always has more acidity than that in Ampuis. "That was a gift in 2003," he added. Finishes powerful and long, with solid but sweet tannins Duclaux described as "Australian."

Component #1: Good ruby-red. Polite but pure aromas of raspberry, woodsmoke and truffle. Sweet, smoky and clean, if a bit chunky. Fat, roasted, slightly oily sample, finishing with substantial dusty tannins. Component #2, from Maison Rouge: Saturated ruby-red color. Superripe nose offers roasted fruits and nutty oak. Fat to the point of heavy, with superripe flavors of chocolatey oak, pepper and bacon fat. As roasted as this is, it's still exuberant in a 2003 way. Shows less acidity and more tannins than the first sample. Very 2003 in style. Component #3, press wine in a new barrel: Ruby-red. Fat, sweet and low in acidity. Shows less cut and detail than the first two samples. An approximation of the final blend: Dee p ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of black fruits, smoked meat and woodsmoke, with a flinty nuance. Sweet, fat and voluptuous, with a dominant flavor of black raspberry. Finishes with very soft, fine tannins. Obviously low in acidity and just this side of heavy; today I don't find the sappiness of classic Cote-Rotie. But very smooth and expressive, with strong torrefaction notes of coffee and espresso. With aeration, the tannins build and coat the teeth.