2007 Meursault Charmes

The Buisson-Charles 2007 Meursault Charmes smells oily, fusil, and chalky in the way locals describe the odor engendered by breaking rocks. Toasted, malted grain, hazelnut, and white peach add familiar themes on a palate of mouth-coating richness and subtle but alluring creaminess, without sacrificing the estate’s trademark clarity to flavor nuances, and preservation of refreshment that leave me salivating uncontrollably. Hints of resin and spice from barrel are well-integrated and wood does not detract from this wine’s salient features: textural finesse, nuance, and refreshment. (It represents nearly 50 year old vines that touch Genevrieres, and if Michel Buisson were to have had his way, he volunteers, only one rather than two of the five barrels would have been new!) Expect this to perform well for a decade or more. Catherine and Patrick Essa’s new reception, crush, and storage facilities are now completed and they have expanded through control of significant additional acreage in Les Boucheres and Gouttes d’Or. Patrick Essa's approach (like that of his father-in-law Michel Buisson) seemed ideal for restraining any over-the-top tendencies of vintage 2006, but the 2007s here are also very successful, if slightly less obviously imposing. Readers are encouraged to consult my report in issue 180 for further details on the approach taken at this under-rated estate that produces consistently age-worthy Meursault. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300