1988 Angelus
Estimated value
Buying options
Tasting notes
This opens with waves of tobacco, cured leather, truffles, smoke, cigar box, liquorice, charcuterie and spice. The most evolved of the six wines in this vintage comparison but gorgeous, with delicate, finely-spun tannins. It softens into sweet strawberry puree and brambled raspberry flesh, a sign that things are on the plateau but still with generosity and a quiet power. The more you sit with it the more it uncurls and draws you in. Hubert de Boüard had taken over from his father at this point, with a key point of rupture coming in 1985 after a split over dropping fruit during the growing season, making this a fascinating time of transition at the property, as Hubert then upped density of plantings, carried out soil studies, and generally moved towards the more modern shape of the wine. No records of exact blends, so this is an estimation. One for a book and a quiet corner. Joyous.
Critic scores
Average Score
Wine Spectator
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
The 1988 Angélus, which Hubert de Boüard told me he considers his first real vintage, has a wide tawny rim as you would expect for a 30-year old wine. It has a very old school bouquet but one that I found utterly charming: dark berry fruit, leather, sage and fragrant pinecones, well defined with commendable vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with melted tannin. It is a little drier compared to the previous bottle tasted seven years ago, but it is well balanced with leather, white pepper, fennel and sage infusing the degraded red fruit. Yes, it is a little foursquare and conservative but it has aged impressively and still continues to give drinking joy. Tasted at the château.
Magnum. 40% Cabernet Franc, 60% Merlot. Dark and rich. A bit dry and horsey. Thick and polished. Very dry finish. Nicely balanced and refined. Long. Vital and quite fresh. Drying end. Best value. (JR)
About the producer
Ch. Angélus is one of Saint-Emilion's finest properties. Ch. Angélus is one of the few Saint-Emilion properties today that has remained under family ownership since its inception over 237 years ago.