2005 Bourgogne Rouge

Aptly illustrating how deeply the quality of this vintage can run, Roumier’s 2005 Bourgogne (from vineyards below Chambolle) is full of infectiously juicy, primary, tart blackberry fruit – exuberant despite very recent bottling – exhibits remarkable florality, density, refined tannins, and silken texture for a generic Pinot, and finishes straight and long, with subtle, low-toned suggestions of roasted meat, and invigorating fruit skin tartness and hints of salt. This represents an excellent value, but in truth that could be said of the Grand Cru end of Roumier’s line-up as well (at least based on their suggested retails – though finding any will be the trick!). One senses that Christophe Roumier considers 2005 a high point of his career, and my visit with him was among the high points of my recent trip. He describes this as “a classic vintage lending itself to very calm, classic vinification,” which given the opportunities afforded by perfectly healthy, firm, dry, ripe fruit involved triage almost solely to remove ladybugs, and included around 25% whole clusters in the fermenters at the Premier Cru level and 50% at that of Grand Cru. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400.