1999 Calvari

The 1999 Calvari (magnum) is the only wine in this tasting that is somewhat disappointing. The fruit is utterly explosive from the start, as juicy red berries, flowers and minerals coat the palate with massive concentration. The aromatics turn high-toned in the glass, as the level of volatile acidity becomes increasingly apparent over time. Elements of austerity, particularly in the harsh tannin, detract from the overall balance. The 1999 is a bit of an enigma. According to Pontoni, the fruit was affected by the excessively hot weather. The 1999 remains something of a miracle however, as Pontoni harvested this plot just two days before rain essentially destroyed any fruit still on the vine. The fermentation was long that year, and the wine retains elements of austerity and hardness, along with aromatics that aren't as focused as is typically the case. This is the only wine in the tasting that seems to get worse over time, as the small defects took on greater prominence with air.