2010 Sancerre les Monts Damnes

Herb-tinged lime and tangerine along with nut oil, fusil, chalky, and marine notes in the nose of Pascal Cotat’s 2010 Sancerre Les Monts Damnes establish the themes of a bright, faintly oily textured, and dynamically complex palate. A hint of white truffle wafts into play, too, reminiscent of 1996 (which I was promptly privileged to re-taste alongside). Subtly honeyed in a way that beautifully underscores the faintly sweet, sorbet-like succulence of lime, apricot and tangerine, this finishes expansively and at once soothingly and stimulatingly, with hints of toasted nuts adding to the impression of richness conveyed by a wine that those of us who have loved and followed Cotat Sancerres for decades will recognize and cherish instantly. Look for at least two decades of delight. Pascal Cotat – for more on whose methods and (quite literally) garage winery, consult my report in issue 172 – perpetuated a family tradition of late harvest by not beginning to pick in 2011 until the second week of September, yet the results are moderate in alcohol (particularly when compared with those obtained by his cousin Francois, in most instances from neighboring vines) and in the case of the Mont Damnes evince a sense of both vivacity and levity exceptional for this vintage. As for mid-October harvested 2010, just wow! Taken together, these last two vintages show Pascal (with papa Francis still in support) on a roll. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93