2004 Gruner Veltliner Kellerberg Smaragd

The 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kellerberg, tasted from cask, reeks of ripe peaches, well-hung Virginia tobacco, (Viognier-like) acacia, and Szechuan peppercorns. Full-bodied, oily, and rich in the mouth, and loaded with blood orange, grapefruit, persimmon, peach, tobacco, pepper, nut paste and brown spices, it suggests a hint of sweetness entirely appropriate to and supportive of the opulent overall impression, which is rather vintage atypical. (It’s the terroir, ? ) Massively-endowed, yet elegant, this brilliant Kellerberg displays unplumbable depth and a cascading wealth of finishing flavors in which the tobacco gets lit up and smoked without a trace of heat. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800