1990 Barolo Riserva
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Tasting notes
The 1990 Barolo Riserva is initially rather imposing, but then settles down a bit with air. A myriad of tar, smoke, tobacco, herbs and dried prunes emerge from this relatively forward Barolo. The warmth of the 1990 vintage is most apparent in the round, generous finish. Despite the wine's up-front softness, there is plenty of the typical Borgogno tannic clout supporting the fruit.
Critic scores
Average Score
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
With only 15 or so bottles left in the winery cellar, the 1990 Barolo Riserva appears younger than it really is. The cork on the bottle I sampled pulled out effortlessly and appeared almost brand new (maybe it was). I was very intrigued by this wine, thanks to the overall power and density it showed, but also for the broadness or completeness of the bouquet. Aromas of dark asphalt, dried prune, spice and tar peel back in thick layers. It coats the mouth with thick streaks of glycerin, alcohol and extract. It’s a bit heavy-footed and definitely not as nuanced as some of the finer expressions, yet the wine is teaming with healthy dark fruit flavors and good density. It is one of the wines in this tasting that best captures the sunny, warm conditions that characterize the 1990 vintage. This wine should be decanted five to six hours prior to drinking. Drink: 2014-2020. Jun 2014, www.robertparker.com
About the producer
One of Piedmont’s oldest estates, Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, often known as just “Borgogno”, is archly traditional. Favouring long macerations and extended ageing in Slavonian cask, it is best known for its impressive Barolos, especially the prized late releases from its extensive library stock.