2008 Charmes Chambertin

Well-concentrated blackberry and dark cherry scent and impressively fill the firm, bright palate of Arlaud’s 2008 Charmes Chambertin. Probably because around half of this wine comes from young vines – whose vinification Arlaud tailors to that limitation – if often seems to lack real grand cru depth. (That they’re situated along the line with Latricieres-Chambertin is certainly encouraging.) Still, I like the refinement of tannins here and there are salty, chalky finishing notes that, allied with brightness of fruit, serve for admirable invigoration and additional interest. Give this a few years in bottle and anticipate up to the better part of a decade’s satisfaction. Cyprien Arlaud’s 2008s built on the success of his 2005s and 2006s, leading me to regret that I could not find time to taste his 2007s. (For more about recent changes at this estate, consult my report in issue 186.) Between measures taken to avoid and eliminate botrytis and the dehydrating effect of the north wine, explained Arlaud, he sacrificed one-third the volume of what he considers a normal crop. Arlaud showed me the chart on which he had recorded the picking dates for his parcels, and it represented, he assured me, a crazy-quilt unprecedented in his estate’s history. More than a week, for example, separated the harvest dates of his Morey premier crus Les Chezeaux and Les Ruchots; and some appellations were picked in as many as three tranches. But by careful strategizing and relatively late commencement of his entire harvest, Arlaud was able to remain true to his intention not to chaptalize by much more than half a degree. In the event, he ended up with 2008s in the upper 12s and low 13s in percent alcohol. Cuvaisons lasted up to thirty days, in part thanks to a slow, cold pre-fermentative start, but Arlaud limited pigeage to 3-5 total performances. Malos – with the exception of a Sentiers that charged ahead – were finished by high summer of 2009. (Arlaud is among those who ascribe 2008s problematic malos at least in part to growers having taken the advice of their oenologist and been liberal with sulfuring their grapes and musts.) Arlaud utilized a small proportion of whole clusters and stems on this year’s grand crus, but noted “this was not an ideal vintage for commencing to utilize a significant proportion of stems.” A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Good deep red. Subtly complex aromas and flavors of black cherry, wild herbs and white pepper. As feminine in its way as the Clos de la Roche, with nicely integrated acidity and intriguing saline and iodiney suggestions accentuating the impression of inner-mouth perfume. Finishes sweet and aromatic, with suave tannins. Very stylish wine in the making, from "mostly" Mazoyeres vines.

Sweet and with an odd, too-open note. Not pure. Again, like the Cheseaux, a bit gamey and lacking freshness. Also tasted 12 Jan 2010. Score 16.5. Drink 2012-16: This is the domaine’s largest holding of grand cru by some way and is a blend of two well-located parcels. Quite dark crimson. Sweet and jammy. A very odd sensation in 2008! Rich but heavily oaked. Almost treacly. Just a bit over the top. (JR)