2008 Charmes Chambertin

Pure, bright fresh cherry on the nose of Claude Dugat’s 2008 Charmes Chambertin is accompanied to the palate by a suffusion of chalk, forest floor aura, and invigoratingly salinity. This long, lean, refreshing expression of its vintage gains a sense of red meat juices and takes on ever-sweeter fruit expression as it opens to the air. Oscillating interactions of its multiple layers serve for finishing fascination, while its generous fresh fruit never flags and its underlying tannins boast real refinement. I would look for 12-15 years of satisfying stimulation here. Claude Dugat reports that his triage in 2008 was more for rot than under-ripe berries, since his routine willingness to resort to drastic crop-dropping serves to guarantee that the fruit matures. He did however report back-off slightly on the total length of maceration. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Good deep red. Captivating aromas of black raspberry, gibier and minerals. Lusher and sweeter than the premier crus but still with the almost peppery acidity of the vintage here. Spicy, penetrating and explosive wine combining dark fruits, chocolate, flowers and underbrush. The note of fruity peppercorn carries through to the very long and wild finish. This one tickled my G-spot.

Here the nose is very pinot with an ultra fresh and layered nose that possesses plenty of Gevrey character, especially pungent earth and a hint of animale, which continues onto the bigger and richer but not necessarily more precise or focused big-bodied flavors that are powerful and possess excellent volume, all wrapped in a hugely complex finish. Patience required.Allen Meadows, Burghound