2006 Pinot Grigio Dessimis
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Tasting notes
Really ripe nose – some orange flower and a touch of ginger. Then intense ginger biscuit as you swirl it around. On the palate, sweet and creamy with lees and oak in evidence. This is one of the best Pinot Grigios I have tasted for a long time. Although it is creamy, there's a fresh sour note and beautifully balanced acidity to complement the richness of texture and weight of fruit. (JH)
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The Dessimis represents an extreme expression of Pinot Grigio, but from time to time this French oak-aged wine outperforms, as it does in 2006. To be sure there is not a lot of varietal character here, but the wine does offer terrific harmony in its pears, spices, flowers and sweet toasted oak. This richly-textured, stylish wine finishes with outstanding length and tons of polish stylish. The 1996 is still going strong.
The Dessimis represents an extreme expression of Pinot Grigio, but from time to time this French oak-aged wine outperforms, as it does in 2006. To be sure there is not a lot of varietal character here, but the wine does offer terrific harmony in its pears, spices, flowers and sweet toasted oak. This richly-textured, stylish wine finishes with outstanding length and tons of polished style. The 1996 is still going strong. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. This line-up from Vie di Romans and proprietor Gianfranco Gallo is truly impressive. To be honest, I haven’t always been a huge fan of this estate, but in recent vintages Gallo has made significant strides in quality. In the past Gallo was fanatical about communicating the exact details of vinification and aging for his wines, particularly in the use of cooperage, but he has become somewhat more reluctant, as he found that consumers formed preconceived ideas of what the wines would taste like before trying them. Although it is hard to fault Gallo for that view, it is also inescapable that he bottles large number of different wines and some of his single-varietal wines are made in two versions, so it is only natural that consumers might wonder what the differences are. At the end of the day, however, the wines speak for themselves. These remain some of the richest, lushest wines being made in Friuli, but they are also among the most elegant. Our tasting ended with a few 1996s, and I am pleased to report that the wines are still delicious today. Readers should note that not all of these wines are imported into the US, but they should be available in other markets. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411