2006 Cedric Bouchard La Boloree

The 2006 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée is showing very well. Offering up aromas of waxy green yellow orchard fruit, citrus rind, white flowers, warm bread and anise, it's full-bodied, ample and enveloping, reflecting the ripe and sunny vintage, with a generous core of fleshy, sun-kissed fruit that retains lively acidity, concluding with an expansive finish. Open and charming, it's also more complete than the 2005 tasted alongside it.

I have had the 2006 Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée a number of times recently, and it has never failed to deliver the goods. The more time passes, the more I think the Bolorée is Bouchard's most important wine because of its ability to develop in bottle. Graphite, pencil shavings, anise and white stone fruits all explode from the glass in this powerful Champagne. Each time I taste the 2006, it shows better. How high will it soar?

100% Pinot Blanc, 0.2107 ha, max yield 26 hl/ha. Interesting to have a champagne based on Pinot Blanc! Yes it does smell of Pinot Blanc, but do you really want that smell from a champagne? Rather sweet on the end. A curiosity rather than an out-and-out thrill, I’d say. Surely there are a few Franciacorta producers who could offer this experience at a sligthtly lower price? (JR)