1994 Vina Ardanza Reserva

Weighty, but still a moderately-sized effort, the 1994 Vino Ardanza Reserva offers an intense, classic nose of smoke, earth, tobacco, cigar box, red currants, and minerals. Already revealing some amber in its ruby color, it possesses a soft, medium-bodied texture as well as attractive, fleshy fruit. It can be enjoyed over the next 3-4 years. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

Readers looking for deeply pigmented, dark purple-colored wines will be disappointed by the light, evolved colors from this bodega, but there is considerable complexity, elegance, and flavor authority to these wines. The 1994 Ardanza exhibits sweet toasty oak, as well as a deep medium ruby color and abundant kirsch/strawberry liqueur aromas and flavors. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. A Christopher Cannan Selection, imported by Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620

Excellent deep red. Fresh but rather unforthcoming aromas of red fruits and tar. Thick and rich; really chewy and mouthfilling. Not overly oaky. Finishes very long, with suave, fine tannins and compelling freshness.