2009 Riesling Auslese

Picked out over numerous parcels, the Grans-Fassian 2009 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese brims with drippingly-ripe white peach and Persian melon and achieves a lovely sense of delicacy from its low alcohol without its sweetness threatening to become overly-dominant. Creamy yet refreshing, with saline savor and suggestions of lobster shell enhancing its persistent, saliva-stimulating appeal, Grans insists this is informed by at most 10% botrytis. This succulent, buoyant beauty ought to be deliciously fascinating over the coming quarter-century or more. Gerhard Grans compares 2009 at his estate with 1990 for its combination of high ripeness with strong acidity and little botrytis. Fermentations were nearly all very long this year by estate standards, with few of even the sweet wines finishing up until shortly before their May bottling. Grans persists in his staunch defense of Grosses Gewachs and in general of legally trocken bottlings – which collectively make up around half of his production – maintaining that such a dry format is best for emphasizing the mineral dimensions of Riesling from his great sites. (Note that due to a recent change in importers, no suggested retail prices were yet available for these Grans-Fassian 2009s.) Importers in future will include: Old Vine Imports, Petaluma, CA; (707) 769-1745