2008 Brunello di Montalcino

The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino is quite pretty in this vintage. It displays a classic profile of underbrush, tobacco, smoke, licorice and black cherries. The tannins are firm but nicely balanced. I expect the 2008 will drink well with minimum cellaring. It is one of the more open Brunellos I can remember tasting here. Still, there is plenty of Biondi Santi kick in the wine’s acidity and tannin profile. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2038. Sadly, Franco Biondi Santi passed away just a few short weeks after my most recent visit to Il Greppo. I tasted with Franco Biondi Santi several times over the years. Always impeccably dressed and aristocratic in demeanor, Biondi Santi was unfailingly polite but also passionate in his advocacy of tradition. Biondi Santi would always accompany me throughout the cellar, tasting through all the vintages in barrel, even though advancing age clearly took a toll on his energy level toward the end of his life. Despite his age, Biondi Santi ran Il Greppo with an iron fist. The winery was always clean and well-maintained. Nothing happened at the estate without his explicit approval. I saw that once again first hand when I visited earlier this year. As was the custom when he was ill during one of my tastings, we always spoke by phone before I left the property. Mentally, Biondi Santi was as engaged as always. Today, the young Biondi Santi Brunellos appear less massively tannic and impenetrable than they have in the past. My February tasting ended with the 2012s from cask. For those who haven’t heard, 2012 is a potentially outstanding vintage in Montalcino. If the wine I tasted in cask is as phenomenal in bottle, it will be a fitting conclusion to a brilliant career. Importer: Vision Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, NJ; tel. (201) 210-0400

Maturing ruby with a broad, quite pale rim. Not immediately fruity on the nose and a hint of leather and a little dusty. Balsamic more than fruity for the moment. Very elegant palate weight and the acidity only becoming more noticeable on the finish. Firm tannins without dominating the whole. Slow to open up on the fruit side, and will need some considerable age. (WS)

The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino Annata is quite pretty in this vintage. It displays a classic profile of underbrush, tobacco, smoke, licorice and black cherries. The tannins are firm but nicely balanced. I expect the 2008 will drink well with minimum cellaring. It is one of the more open Brunellos I can remember tasting here. Still, there is plenty of Biondi Santi kick in the wine’s acidity and tannin profile. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2038. Jun 2013, www.robertparker.com