1985 Figeac

The 1985 Figeac ought to be one of the decade's great wines à la Cheval Blanc; however, several bottles have never convinced me that this is a top-grade Figeac. The bouquet is fully mature with remnants of red fruit, garrigues , decaying brown leaves and bay. The palate is well balanced and autumnal, elegant with a slight meatiness towards the finish that shows just a little dryness. I would drink all bottles in the not-too-distant future.

This has feather-light tannins and is full of sweet plum and raspberry notes alongside truffles, undergrowth and spice - showing all the signature tertiary notes of a great Figeac. It was a cool yet dry year, except for the hot month of September. Even at 30 years old you feel this has further to go. It is right on the plateau now and feeling fine. This wine's effortless and gentle character make it one of my favourites of the tasting. You could overlook this one, but give it a moment and the complexity steals up on you.

Tasted at the Château Figeac vertical at the property. It has been a number of years since I last tasted the 1985 Figeac. It is forward on the nose, laden with Provençal herbs, autumn leaves and cloves, certainly more forward than the 1985 Cheval Blanc, as one example. There is a fine definition and linearity on the entry, hints of dried blood percolating through the mass of dried herbs with a slight bitterness towards the finish. On this occasion, against my expectations and indeed against form, it is the 1986 that I prefer, whereas the 1985 appears to be in graceful decline. Tasted June 2015.