1994 Il Carbonaione

Earthy, mushroom character, plump cherry compote with firm tannin and a subtle lifted floral aromatics. Zippy acidity and lots of concentration on the mid palate. (RH)

I was blown away by the 1994 Carbonaione, a wine from an average year. Nothing in particular stands out, but the wine shows exceptional balance. This is not a complex or structured Carbonaione; rather it is an understated wine with delicate notes of menthol, spices and red cherries. It remains fresh and vibrant for a wine of its age, and proves how well this wine can develop, even in smaller vintages.

The 1994 Il Carbonaione exhibits a dense, dark purple color, followed by a sweet nose of pain grille, vanillin, and copious quantities of black-cherry and blackcurrant fruit. Rich, full-bodied, pure, and long in the mouth, with outstanding harmony among its structural components (alcohol, acidity, and tannin), this is a beautifully made, classic Tuscan Sangiovese. Although approachable because of the sweet, rich fruit, this wine needs another 1-3 years of cellaring. It will drink well for 15 years. This wine would be a great match with Bistecca alla Fiorentina (grilled Porterhouse steak). This 30-acre estate owned by the renowned winemaker Vittori Fiore, produces approximately 1,500 cases of a 100% Sangiovese di Lamole-based wine from a vineyard planted between 1920 and 1930. Yields are frightfully low (about 1.2 tons of fruit per acre), and the wine is aged in large foudres before bottling. This is one of the most exciting wines emerging from Tuscany. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620