2010 Volnay Brouillards

(from vines more than 60 years of age, on Volnay's border with Pommard; 25% new oak): Bright, deep red. Lovely lift to the aromas of cassis, bitter chocolate and licorice. Solidly built and intense, with enticing sweetness to the black fruit and floral flavors. Finishes with a note of bitter chocolate and finer tannins than usual for this typically masculine wine.

The 2010 Volnay Les Brouillards is another dark, powerful wine from Boillot. Layers of fruit caress the palate in this sensual, layered wine. The Brouillards impresses for its textural depth and richness as it covers every corner of the palate with rich, textured fruit. Hints of spices and licorice frame the bold, structured finish. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. The 2010 vintage was not especially kind to Louis Boillot. The December 2009 frost wiped out the vineyard Boillot used for his Bourgogne, so naturally that wine was not made. The Fixin yields were tiny (just one barrel) and that wine was blended into the Cote de Nuits Villages. Overall yields were down 40-50%, although some parcels were hit even harder. The Caillerets, Croix Noires and Cherbaudes were down 50% and the Pommard was down 60%. The harvest started on September 22 and lasted about a week. The wines were aged in 25-30% new oak. Malos were very slow and were not finished until September 2011, quite late even by standards of the year. On a much more positive note, the wines themselves are fabulous and deserve serious attention. Unfortunately, the 2010 Pommard Les Croix Noires and Chambolle-Musigny Beaux Bruns were too reduced to evaluate, so I will have to wait for another opportunity to taste those wines. I will report on the 2009s in the April issue. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2010 Volnay Les Brouillards is another dark, powerful wine from Boillot. Layers of fruit caress the palate in this sensual, layered wine. The Brouillards impresses for its textural depth and richness as it covers every corner of the palate with rich, textured fruit. Hints of spices and licorice frame the bold, structured finish. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Feb 2012, www.robertparker.com