2010 Chambertin Clos de Beze 0,75 l Domaine Bouchard

Surprisingly expressive of red fruit, with an overlay of oak spice and a dusty element. Tannins are enigmatic – they start fluid and silky and then build to quite a block at the end. Sweet red fruit re-emerges on the length with real persistence and concentration. (JH)

(50% vendange entier ): Bright red-ruby. Spectacular, ethereal nose offers aromas of cranberry, pomegranate, blackberry, dried rose, cinnamon and menthol. Like liquid silk on the palate, with superb sappy intensity and energy to the lightly saline flavors of dark fruits, clove, minerals and flowers. A wine of compelling complexity, finishing with noble tannins and great palate-staining persistence. Owing to the high percentage of uncrushed berries, this wine had the longest cuvaison in the cellar.

This is also cool and restrained with a much broader range of spicy elements to the gorgeously complex red and blue pinot fruit aromas. An intense minerality suffuses the powerful and extract rich broad-shouldered flavors that are muscular but not rustic before terminating in a focused, balanced and linear finish. This should age successfully for many years and require at least 15, before it will be sufficiently civilized to enjoy properly. That said it should repay handsomely the cellar time. April 2012. www.burghound.com Drink 2027+.