2012 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibner Steinertal 0,75 l Pichler
Estimated value
Buying options
Tasting notes
Lightly smoky nose. Off dry. Certainly well behaved and relatively delicate, if slightly muted. There is something a bit medicinal about this. Solid but without quite as much aromatic lift as I would like. Sweet though slightly dull. (JR)
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
With his 2012 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal, says Lucas Pichler, “the aim is to showcase the vineyard, which is a cool site, whereas in Loiben, really, things are (generally) a bit too warm.” Prior to this solo debut – spurred by the acquisition of a second parcel – the Pichlers’ Gruner Veltliner from this site went into their Loibenberg (and “M”). This solo Steinertal projects delightfully luscious and exuberant pear and melon fruit along with saliva-inducing, metaphorically cooling suggestions of stalk celery. A sweet-smoky bite of Szechuan pepper lends invigoration and cut to a juicily protracted finish. A model of elegance and lift allied to fundamentally rich ripeness, it should perform beautifully through at least 2022. “In recent years,” notes Lucas Pichler, “we’ve been harvesting a little earlier in order to depress the alcohol levels a bit,” which in 2012 meant among other things beginning with Gruner Veltliner Federspiel already in the third week of September. After what I had tasted thus far of the vintage, I was amazed to find the Rieslings here in aggregate even finer than the Gruner Veltliners, a pattern that was to be dramatically accentuated at nearby Alzinger. (I did not get chance on my most recent visit to catch-up with Pichlers’ Sauvignon Blanc from this vintage.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0700