1990 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Riserva
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Tasting notes
Tasted from a double magnum, the 1990 Le Pergole Torte Riserva shows an exceptionally high level of complexity and balanced intensity. A first wave of aromas includes medicinal herb with pharmaceutical-like precision. A second wave of aromas is lavish and all-encompassing with dried fruit, spice, licorice and campfire ash. In all, the bouquet delivers beautiful complexity and a profound sense of depth. This is without a doubt the most determined and monumental of all the vintages presented in this retrospective. Indeed, Martino Manetti calls it a "borderline wine" in that its overall thickness and boldness recalls very little of the Montevertine house style or the cool-climate characteristics of Radda in Chianti. "This is a wine that has always frightened me," Martino says. "I feel too much respect for it to feel differently." Montevertine made a Riserva only once in its history.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Tasted from double magnum, Montevertine's 1990 Le Pergole Torte Riserva is deep, powerful and explosive, with striking richness. This particular bottle, a double magnum, is not the finest example of the 1990 Riserva I have tasted, but even so, it is clear this is a special wine. A very special wine. The unctuous, sweet fruit that is so typical of the Riserva is there, yet the wine is a bit disjointed, with the aromatics more forward than the palate. It is interesting to note that, while 1990 is generally regarded as a warm vintage that produced opulent wines, the harvest started on October 15, which was on the later side by the standards of the era. The best bottles of the 1990 can be transcendental. This double magnum falls a bit short of that lofty status.
The 1990 Le Pergole Torte Riserva is a youngster even today. It bursts from the glass with extraordinary richness, power and depth. Dark cherries, plums, camphor, licorice and spices are woven together in this stunning, towering wine. The 1990 Riserva remains a monument to Sangiovese. It is one of the great wines of this legendary vintage. Following the harvest, Sergio Manetti found one cask of his Pergole Torte was different from the others. It was the cask with the last fruit to be brought into the cellar. That cask ended up being bottled as the one and only Pergole Torte Riserva made at Montevertine. Readers lucky enough to own the 1990 Riserva are in for a real treat. At 22 years of age, the 1990 Riserva remains a youngster.
Relatively light ruby. Mature, interesting, confident nose – not especially Sangiovese, more fine mature red wine. Some sweetness on the nose. Still quite marked taninin and acidity but a fine wine. Very elegant and with some spicy notes. Long, competent, very well-made wine indeed. Very different flavours from the rest. (JR)
About the producer
The legendary Montervertine estate was created by the Manetti family in 1967 and is best known for its iconic pure Sangiovese, Le Pergole Torte. Based in Chianti but with the wines labelled as IGT Toscana, these elegant wines are rightfully some of Tuscany and Italy’s most sought-after.