2005 Gravner Breg Anfora

Pignolo. Deep garnet. Utterly seductive spiced cherry fruit. Red and black cherry together. So inviting. Lifted by sweet spice and blackberries and bramble jam without being jammy. Deep and still incredibly firm in texture yet with a cool freshness that is both acidity and tannins. Still has an amazing amount of fruit. Deep and chewy and very long with that spicy fresh finish. Thick but rounded texture, still leaving a grainy feeling on the tongue. (JH)

The 2005 Anfora Breg represents a blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Riesling Italico. Anfora Breg shows even broader shoulders compared to the Anfora Ribolla Gialla with a more defined sense of tannic structure on the finish. That extra heft gives support to chestnut honey, caramelized sugar, candied apricot, crushed sea shell, candied orange peel and Sicilian almond marzipan. There’s a steady sense of lift when it comes to the buoyancy of the bouquet. This wine will continue to evolve. Drink: 2015-2025. More than a winery, Gravner is a pilgrimage destination that has reached epic cult status among wine intelligentsia. The reason has more to do with clay than grapes. Josko Gravner famously abandoned the use of wood some 40 years ago. In the late 1980s, following a trip the Caucasus he learned about the ancient use of clay vessels for making and storing wine. In 1997, he made his first amphorae-aged Ribolla Gialla. Today, there are more than a dozen high profile wineries in Italy who have followed his example and have embraced this extreme branch of the “natural wine” movement. Gravner’s wines are indeed controversial and polarizing. Those who profess to love them make an equally bold statement as those who don’t. The important thing is to take a stand. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, www.domaineselect.com

The 2005 Bianco Breg Anfora has developed beautifully since I first reviewed it last year. Silky tannins frame an expressive core of apricots, orange peel, flowers and sweet spices as the Breg opens up in the glass. The 2005 is a mid-weight Breg that doesn't quite have the power of other recent vintages, but that may actually work in its favor when enjoyed at the table. The long, harmonious finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste. This is one of the most elegant wines I have tasted from Gravner in a long time, perhaps ever.