2003 Château Musar Red

Clear glass. Pale golden amber. I would never have guessed this was 14 years younger than the 1989 tasted immediately before it. Again, that lively edge of green veginess on a broad palate with relatively low acidity and a lanolin quality that reminds me much more of Sémillon than Chardonnay. Very sprightly on the palate. It isn’t remarkably persistent, still has a little light tannin, and I can quite see – not least on the basis of the 1989 – that there is no hurry to drink this. Obviously oak aged with real structure. No more than medium body – but what a lot of flavour... Quite a challenge to work out the right food for this, I would have thought. (JR)

The 2003 Chateau Musar seems very different than years such as 1981, but maybe that’s just because it is so young, or possibly because of the vintage or an increasing nod to modernity. Either way, this is a ripe, sexy Musar. It retains its elegant mid-palate as well as lovely fruit and fine balance. There is a slightly sweet tinge to the finish, perhaps a touch of a high-toned demeanor. The lush texture and surprising richness make this a rather luscious wine by Musar standards. It is showing little but baby fat right now. Fresh and youthful, it is just a friendly puppy today. I’m not so sure it is in the winery’s preferred style, but it should be a very enjoyable vintage for consumers. Showing not a trace of age, it has a lot of potential and a long life ahead. It may yet be entitled to further upticks in score, but let’s be a bit conservative at the moment. Drink now-2035. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, CA; (415) 931-1725

A very unusual wine! Pale copper. Big and hot. Lacks acid. An acquired taste! But it’s certainly from a hot country! (JR)