2011 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault. Mid ruby. Complex and intense aromas: still has lots of red fruit but also the start of something very slightly gamey. On the palate, excellent typicality – fresh, sweet-fruited and just a little meaty. Classic, traditional-style maturing Châteauneuf, without modern excess of extraction or oak. Meaty aftertaste. Tannins are now supple. (JH)

Deep ruby. A wild, complex bouquet displays candied cherry, lavender, smoked meat and licorice. Sappy and penetrating, offering sweet cherry and floral pastille flavors and a smoky nuance. A note of bitter chocolate comes up with air and carries through a long, sappy finish. In an old-school style and quite a bit more feral than recent vintages for this property, which will please long-time fans.

Starting with the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, it’s a forward, supple and sweetly fruited effort that offers up loads of kirsch, garrigue, licorice and pepper on the nose. Playing in the medium-bodied, elegant spectrum, it will evolve nicely for 7-8 years. Another bastillion of traditional Chateauneuf du Pape, Vieux Donjon is owned by Lucien and Marie Jose Michel, with the winemaking now firmly in the hands of their talented daughter, Claire Michel. They produce a single red and white Chateauneuf du Pape, with the red always a rough blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and the balance a mix of other permitted varieties. They started partial destemming in 1993, pulling out the green stems and keeping the more lignified stems. Aging occurs all in concrete tanks and older foudre. This was a fabulous tasting with both Claire and her brother Francois, and as I hope the notes show, the wines have classic Chateauneuf du Pape character and broad drink windows. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173