2005 Vietti Barolo Brunate

Good full red. Restrained but complex nose hints at musky brown spices, tobacco, violet, minerals and smoke. Suave and silky on entry, then quite backward in the middle, with a serious spine currently dominating. Finishes with substantial tannic structure and a slight youthful dryness. I like this wine's light touch but it's most attractive today on the nose.

The estate's 2005 Barolo Brunate is a brooding, mysterious wine that possesses a level of sheer concentration and richness that is exceedingly rare in this vintage. It is also an incredibly primary, full-bodied Barolo that will require significant patience, but all of the signature Brunate notes are in the glass, and this Barolo should develop into a splendid wine over the coming years. This is another awesome effort from Vietti. I may be underestimating this wine, as it is ridiculously great even at this early stage.

The estate’s 2005 Barolo Brunate is a brooding, mysterious wine that possesses a level of sheer concentration and richness that is exceedingly rare in this vintage. It is also an incredibly primary, full-bodied Barolo that will require significant patience, but all of the signature Brunate notes are in the glass, and this Barolo should develop into a splendid wine over the coming years. This is another awesome effort from Vietti. I may be underestimating this wine, as it is ridiculously great even at this early stage. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2035. Vietti has long been an elite, reference-point producer in Piedmont but in recent years brothers-in-law Luca Currado and Mario Cordero have taken major steps to further elevate the quality of their wines across the board. My tasting with Luca Currado encompassed 20-plus Barolos covering vintages 2005 through 2008, including multiple parcels the estate uses for its multi-vineyard Barolo Castiglione. All of the wines were potentially outstanding and some will doubtless turn out to be profound. Vietti fans have much to look forward to in coming years, the biggest decision here will be making choices among a large number of truly special wines. For starters, the 2005s aren’t too far behind the spectacular 2004s. Unfortunately there will be no Barolo Riserva Villero as the vineyard was damaged by hail. The Barolos are fermented in stainless steel, then racked into French oak barriques for the malolactic fermentations. The wines are then moved into Slavonian oak casks where they complete their aging. Over the last few years Currado has gradually lengthened maceration times and taken a more moderate approach to French oak, while limiting yields dramatically, all of which has resulted in an extremely consistent set of Barolos that are easily among the region’s finest. As an aside, long-time visitors to the property will be happy to learn that a much needed renovation to the tasting room is complete. The new facility is strikingly beautiful. Importer: Remy Cointreau USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2204