2017 Keller Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Chalk dust, Latakia tobacco, lime peel, bruised apple skin, pennyroyal and boxwood combine for a penetrating nose whose sheer intensity – not to mention some of its specifics – I can’t recall from any previous Keller Morstein. The feel is firm, and the palate veritably seethes with mineral matter while exhibiting brightly and tartly juicy fruit intensity that suggests an admixture of white currant and crabapple core. The finish grips implacably, tugging at cheeks and salivary glands alike, while delivering mouth-shaking energy and a striking impression of chalk and stone suffusion. And for all that this wine approaches hyper-concentration, it nonetheless exhibits an exhilarating sense of animation and lift while compelling the next sip. “That’s exactly how it should be,” remarked Keller.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
To be bottled August 2018. 70-year-old vines, 2 t/ha. Lots of rocky spice on the nose, immediately more open than you might expect for Morstein. Peachy too. Apricot but without the sweetness (and there’s no botrytis on any of the GG wines). Aromatic without being perfumed. Rich and deep and mouth-filling. There’s power but no lack of finesse. Muscular, deep, deep and long. It almost goes without saying about a Keller wine that it is perfectly fresh but it also has all this spice and power. Really rocky and mineral, but dark rock not chalky. Deep, deep wine. (JH)