1983 Soldera (Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
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Tasting notes
The 1983 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Soldera's first Riserva, is also the wine that first brought Soldera acclaim. The Riserva was done with Intistieti fruit and fermented in oak uprights. It shows a bit more textural opulence and creaminess than the non-Riserva. The aromas feel a touch more forward too, perhaps the result of micro-oxygenation that occurs with fermenting in oak, even if these kinds of assessments are hard to make with precision after decades given both the passage of time and the natural bottle variation that is to be expected in wines of this age. Regardless, both 1983s are fascinating to compare and contrast. What a treat.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 1983 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows its typical richness and demi-glace unctuosity. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, tobacco and leather all develop in the glass, but the wine never really seems to come together. This is not an especially fine example of what is usually a far more compelling wine.
One of the many highlights of the evening, the 1983 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has an extra level of sweetness density than the straight Brunello, with even more tannic heft underpinning the fruit. Tonight, the wine is every bit as magnificent as its reputation.
Magnum Very deep colour. Deeply agricultural, definitely Sangiovese! Pruney. Grandissimo in build for a Soldera wine. Some Italian writers said this was vinegar but for us it is a pleasure. This magnum was bought from an Italian collector on ebay! (A vindication.) Very, very rich and sweet after eggs with red wine and spinach. (JR)