2012 Bibi Graetz Testamatta
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Tasting notes
2012 was a challenging vintage due to a hailstorm during the growing season, followed by a hot summer with drought that gave small berries with thick skins. And yet the colour here is bright pale cherry red, with vibrant reflective edges that remain full of life at 10 years old. Ripe concentrated fruits, orange peel, cloves and rich sweet cherry flavours. Concentrated tannins, a little subdued overall, there is more life waiting to unfurl over the next few years.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux
More reviews and scores
Sangiovese vines aged 50-80 years in Vincigliata, Fiesole, Rufina, Greve, Panzano and Siena. Soils rich in galestro and clay. Vinified in open-topped French barriques with 6-8 manual punchdowns per day. Aged 30 months in French oak. 1,250 cases. Mid cherry red. Lovely aroma of sour cherry allied to a more savoury quality and also a touch of oak sweetness. Graetz has achieved that fine, dry tannic texture here that I only ever find where the vineyard has been allowed to speak. Again there is a touch of oak sweetness but the fruit shines – the palate is both scented and deep in fruit but without being a fruit bomb. It is a lovely wine but I can’t help thinking the price is this high because so little is made. But is is beautifully refined, aromatic and persistent. Clear Sangiovese character but Sangiovese that is showing terrific finesse. I have not tasted older vintages but this has the freshness and the harmony to have a long life if you can keep your hands off it as it gives so much scented pleasure already. (JH)
About the producer
Based just outside Florence, Bibi Graetz is something of a maverick in the Tuscan wine scene. Working with old vineyards of indigenous grapes around Chianti, he produces intense wines classified as IGT Toscana; not fitting neatly in either the Super Tuscan or Chianti camp.