2005 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello

Good full medium red. Deeper, more important aromas of black cherry, strawberry and minerals; more primary and brooding than the normale Bigger and richer too, with a creamier texture and an almost chocolatey character that carries through to the aftertaste. More complex but less fruity than the basic Barolo, with more apparent minerality. Quite silky in texture thanks to firm but well-integrated acidity. Most impressive today on the back end, which is long and scented, with a delicate but very persistent flavor of almost candied small red fruits.

The 2005 Barolo Colonnello reveals lovely density and depth in its spiced, floral red fruits. The tannins are sweet and silky, very much in keeping with the qualities this vineyard rich in sand typically expresses. This mid-weight Barolo offers awesome balance and the sheer class for which Aldo Conterno is famous. It is a great effort.

The 2005 Barolo Colonnello reveals lovely density and depth in its spiced, floral red fruits. The tannins are sweet and silky, very much in keeping with the qualities this vineyard rich in sand typically expresses. This mid-weight Barolo offers awesome balance and the sheer class for which Aldo Conterno is famous. It is a great effort. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Aldo Conterno is back. After a period of inconsistent wines (by this house’s standards) in the mid- to late-1990s, Conterno once again takes its place among the region’s top producers. Today the estate is run by Aldo Conterno’s three sons Giacomo, Franco and Stefano Conterno who look after vineyards, marketing, and winemaking respectively. Based on the wines I have tasted recently this venerable property looks to be in great hands for the future. The 2005s are a worthy follow-up to the hugely successful 2004s, leaving no doubt that 2004 and 2005 are the finest back to back vintages here since the historic 1989 and 1990. The 2005 Barolos represent a new point of arrival after the estate embarked on a major rethinking of its work in the vineyards in the late 1990s, which involved among other things shorter winter pruning (designed to lower yields naturally) and a greater amount of attention to canopy management. In 2005 the estate harvested only a portion of each of its vineyards before the rains, while some of the fruit was brought in after the rains. In the end, only the fruit that was harvested before the inclement weather set in was bottled, so overall production in 2005 is roughly 40% of normal. On the plus side, there will be a small amount of Granbussia. These gorgeous, uplifting 2005 Barolos firmed up quite a bit in the glass, suggesting they are headed for a slumber that hopefully won’t last too long, as the wines are truly special. Stylistically the wines are made in the medium-bodied style that is characteristic of the 2005 Barolos, but offer terrific harmony and drinkability. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461