2018 Envinate Migan
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Tasting notes
A blend of two parcels of Listán Negro from the volcanic soils of Valle de la Orotava in Tenerife, 800 m asl. Sandalwood dust, pepper, lavender scented. Red currant. Cranberry. Pink peppercorn. Szechuann. So aerien that even in my mouth it seems to float like a gossamer scarf in a light breeze. And yet - and yet - there is something of ancient stones here. Something so firm, so intractable that it has a kind of timeless permanence. As if it tasted of the shadow of a mountain. Always there, day after day, a sundial wine, a timekeeper wine, a wine without time. This pale, pale, diaphanous, translucent wine is, like the shadow of a mountain, almost unnoticeable, unless you choose to stop, be still, look up, feel. (TC)
Critic scores
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
They started making wine from La Orotava a few years ago, and the red 2018 Migan is named with the old name of the village of La Perdoma. So, this is a village red from different plots in the village, including La Habanera and Tío Luis that are also bottled in small quantities plus some 40% from a vineyard called San Antonio that has more clay. The different plots fermented with 10% stems and matured separately in concrete, used 600-liter barrels and used 228-liter barrels. This is the textbook expression of the soils from La Orotava, showcased by notes of freshly cracked peppercorns, dry rose petals and wet pumice stone and volcanic ash. It's juicy and expressive, medium-bodied, with the power of fruit from La Orotava. From the 2018 vintage, I prefer La Habanera, which has incredible edge and minerality. But this has to be the finest vintage of Migan, only the third they have produced. 11,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2020.